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These are ranks in decending order of significance.Although, in ascending order of cost-effectiveness.The first wears adress maybe once.The second might wear an item again to adifferent event.The last will buy it vintage.
Clothing used to be form following function.And then there was King Louis XIV, who had agrand idea.Those French! He decided that the fashions of the day, well, the royal fashions anyway, were so hot, that they must be shared with the world.So.He had lifesize “fashion dolls” manufactured and clothed in the best the court could offer and sent them to other royal houses.The personal couturier of such royalty would sketch, or even painstakingly pull apart stitch by stitch agarment, paper copy it and put it back together again, for re-sizing.All of this was done only by hand, and so, a tradition was born.
The actual first couturier, rather than aservant to the king, was British import to France, Frederic Charles Worth.In 1858, he branded his own label, began to show collections on live models, impressed Empress Eugenie such, that designers began to influence fashion at court.
Charles Worth soon recognized the need for an established organization, which would restrict the number of designers allowed to be called true couturiers, Chanel Shoes, of influence, and to legally prevent couture to be copied.It was to be come, after several permutations, “La Chambre Syndicale De La Haute Couture,” after it was etablished as the “Federation De La Couture Du Pret-a-Porter, des Couturier et des Mode, Herve Leger,” in 1973.It is run through the Ministry of Industry for the purposes of promoting French fashion and in particular French Haute Couture style.Its mission now includes not only protection from piracy and international advertising of French fashion, but also education and organization and coordination of runway shows.
The Syndicale meets every year and establishes alist of designers deserving the title of couturiers.Among the early couturiers to make the list were, Patou, Poiret, Vionnet, Fortuny, Lanvin, Chanel Schiaparelli, Balenciaga, Dior.More recently Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, Guy Laroche, Paco Rabanne, Emanuel Ungaro, Givenchy were included.Eventually the Syndicale invited foreign designers, Christian Louboutin, such as Giorgio Armani, Valentino, Elie Saab, Atelier Versace to join.Big losses were salons such as Herve Leger and Thierry Mugler.Opening afashion house did not immediately follow the designation of “haute couture.”
The cost of running atrue “haute couture” house is so prohibitive, that many such establishments have begun showing asecondary line, that is more accessible through pret-a-porter.And the latest avenues to save afashion house, is the decision to increase their income through mass marketing and the sale of designer name branded perfumes, handbags and other accessories.
The pressure of creating “haute couture” has become so exorbitant, that several salons decided to retire, most notably Yves St.Laurent (1997), Donatella Versace (2002), and Emanuel Ungaro (2004). The number of salons has diminished from 106in 1946, to 60in 1952, to approximately 10, a number which remains in flux.New designers inspire, but it takes much more than skill to climb the ranks.
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